Hemstitching sewing-machine.



Patented Sept. 4", |900.

s. u', nmonna w. F. mm..

HENSTITGHING SEWING MACHINE. (Appumin med um; `29, leem (No Model.) 2 Sheets-,Shui I.

hawks, eoyejrwnd rm57,4u`u.l Patmed sept. 4, |900,

G. H. nmoun L w. r. mAL. HEIIIS'TlTl-llllvfi SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Mar. 29, 1898.\ (Nolodl.) 2 Sheets-Sheet 2.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

GEORGEH. DIMOND AND WILBUR FQ "DIAL, OF BRIDGEPORT, CONNECTICUT, ASSIGNORS TO `THE WHEELER & WILSON MANUFACTURING COMPANY,

oF SAME PLAcE.

,HEMSATITCHING SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 657,400, dated September 4, 19. Application heimat 29,1895.l Samia. 675.533. (Numdam To all whom, it may concern.:

Be it known that we, GEORGE H. DIMOND` and WILBUR F. DIAL, of Bridgeport, county of Fairiield, State of Connecticut, have in! vented an Improvement in Sewing-Machines.` 'for Hem and Zigzag Stitching, ot' which the following description, in connection withtheaccompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters on the drawings representing likeA parts.

Hemstitching for handkerchiefs, pillows; sheets, and other Work has been done by draw-j ing out from the cloth some of the warp andn weft to thus leave openfspaces and the in-i turned edge of the hem has been laid at the edge of these spacesand stitched in place` and the loose threadsrcrossing these spaces have been tied togetherto thus open Lhe spaces constituting the hemstitch. This class. of hemStitch-Work when done by handisl` quite expensive, and hence sewing-machines:

' have been devised for doing it automatically.

These machines use an eye-pointed needle Lo" carry an upper thread, and cooperating with` said needle is an under thread, the latter carried by a looping mechanism. The eye-point-` ed needle has been carried' by a needle-bar having not only a vertical movement but alsoi a lateral movement, this movement being: imparted to it by movinga gate in which the,` needle-har reciprocates. Inthis class of maehines the needle at each successive, down. thrust passes through the material in which. the hemstitch is being made indifferent parallel planes in the direction of the length of the feed, the distance between these pointsat which the material is penetrated dependsl ing upon the. width of the hemstitch, the width being from one to the other edge of the' hemstitchfseain.

The looping mechanisms heretofore used have been of various different characters, and in theiroperation, they have rotated, oscillated, and reciprocated, and usually the point of the looping mechanism .has moved transversely with relation to and so as to cross the line of feed or the direction in which the` goods are moved by the usual feeding device.

The hemstitch is composed of arepeated.

sequence of stitches to make a gure, the 5o figures being composed of three, or it may be, `more stitches, and these `figures are repeated vin sequence. As our invention is herein illus- Itrated the line of hemstitches is represented as composed. of repeated. three-stitch figures 5 5 but this may be varied, ifdesired, and any Iotheuvusu'al equivalent igu'reof three or more :stitches might be made and yet be within the scopeof our invention.

A In' this invention we have chosen for illus- 6o Qtrating a preferred form of looping or under- :thread mechanism a circularly-movable hook .of the Wheeler 95 Wilson type, it having a poi-nt which when it enters the loop of needle-thread ismoving in thedirection of the feed and the line of stitching instead of transversely with relation to said feed and line of stitching. The needle mechanism is of the `variety commonly used in this class of machines-4'. e., the needle-bar has a vertically-` 7o reciprocating and a lateral movement, and

the lateral movement is controlled by a cam.' `It will be understood that withthis class ot' :needle mechanism, the needle descending in diiferent planes, as stated, more or less distant,aceording,to the width of the hemstitch, gthe point of ihelooping mechanism, it at `the time fof taking the loop of needle-thread moving in the direction of. the feed, could not enter the loops of needle thread in the vari- 8o ious positions occupied by the needle in male` ling a ligure of three or more stitches. The 4llooping` mechanism herein` shown is repre- ,sented as located at one side of the feed-bar, land the feed-bar is a straight one and it ,moves in a right line or transverse the length of the machinebed,lthe direction of movement beingthe direction of the feed. With the looping mechanism and the vibrating and reciprocating needle-bar and needle we have 9o combined a deiiector or deflectors of such construction and arrangement .that Whenever the needle in its descents 4in these two different lines to deli ne the Width of the hemstitch is not in the proper position with relation to the movement of the point of the flooping mechanism said deflector or deectors will act onthe needle ata point below port and Lwill force said needle-in the proper y v direction to'placeVv the loop of needle-thread tially withthe centerline ofthe hemstitch-` gure, and in such case it will be obviousV either thread to be soiled by oil, for the reawhich they were designed, according to the requirements of the machine and the conditions of the hemstitch-seam. If two deflectors are used, the point of the loopingmech-v anism may be located to move in and meetl the needle-loop in a line coincident substanthatwhen the needle descendsaty one and then at the other side of said center line and when itmeets the material vit will be out of; line with relation tothe movement ofthe point of the looping mechanism, and/conse-` quently the needle when below thematerial-` and work-support mustV be sprung aside,the two del'lectors when used operating first-'one and then the other todeflect the needle 'firstin one and then in an oppositedirection, but.

in each instance leaving the deflected needle at they same side-of, the path of movement of the point of the looping mechanism, so that vthe point of said mechanism-mayenter the loop of needle-thread and leave the under.

In some instances the parts. may be so timed and arranged that: the point, of the looping mechanism will move in a; plane corresponding with averticalv line. drawn through the material atrone sideof the hemstitchfigure, andfin such case whenthread therein.

the needledescends in the line of the other movement ofthe point may beput into cor.-

rect position with relation to said pointto: have the loop of. needle-thread correctly en'-. tered in order that asecond thread may be laid in it. By the employment of the pecul iar looping mechanism herein shownit will' be readily apparent that it is impossible forson that nooil is requisite in order that the Without objectionable friction.

ment of the feeding device the said looping mechanism, must be located back ofV the needle, viewing it from the operativelsposition, and with the looping mechanism so lo-` cated the space inwhich thefeed mayoperate is limited, whereasin our invention, as

herein illustrated, wherein the loopingmecli'- -anism is locatedsubstantiallyat one side of the center line of the hemstitch-se'am, there isftleftavclear open space at the opposite side `of the centerline of said hemstitch-seam in ,which may move and operate a feed-bar hav- "ing feed-pointsthat may engage the material "allabout'the point whereit is entered by the needle, both pushingY and pulling-the-material and avoiding packers, and4 at the same time the feeding device may have given to it the necessary strength to enableY it to be run vata high speed.

Wehave chosen to illustrateourinvention with kthat class of a 'Wheeler- 95 Wilson loopy'ing mechanism Ywherein the point coperat- Ving with the needle-thread makes two rota- {tio'ns at each complete reciprocation of the needle, and` hence it is possible to run the imachine at a, higher speed than where the looping mechanism is of a variety wherein` there wasa :to-.and-fro motion or-a variable isp'eed, as heretofore common in this class of `sewing-machi nes.

`'tion-of asewing-machine ywith our improvements added to illustrate oneform of ourin.` jvention, the overhanging arm being partially brokenou-trto save space upon .the drawings. Figsf2 and lshow: different views illustrating the needleas having penetrated the material atv one and then atthe other side of the "hemstitch, the deiiectors being represented as in action-and as having deilectedl the needle laterally. Fig, Ltis a topor plan View7 of a por- Ltion ofi-the work-supportwith thensual slide- `lcoversremoved.` orbrokenfo and with the I-throat-plate broken' out centrallyto thereby showthe deilectors.v Fig.5 is a` transverse section.ofgthe machine, the section being inthe line'of the feedlooking toward the left-handl work-support A,the overhangingarm A', (partially show.n,) it containinga needle-bar-actuating shaft A3, the pivoted needle-bar gate 03, theneedle-bar A4 in said gate and deriv- .ling its reciprocating movement: from said shaft, the eye-pointed needle b, carried by .said4 needle-bar, the link C5, connected withl :said needle-bar gate and actuated bya pivoted vibrating arm E, controlled-and moved by a gate-cam, (not shown,) said cam-,causing saidgate-to be vibratedlaterally about usual lpivots, the take-up B4, the presser-bar b2, having a doublepresser-foot d20, the under shaft Figure 1 is a partial sideelevation in sec-.-v

Referring to the drawings, the bed-plate or IOO Y B having two crankswhich receive two links actuated by said shaft A3, the pinion f4 on the shaft BQ it engaging a toothed wheel/n',

fast on a shaft n2, having at its frontend a feed-lifting cam n4 to act on an arm a5 of a rockshaft nhaving an arm H7 to act on and lift the feed-bar to be described,the rock-shaft D,hav-` arm f, provided with a finger or stud f',- en-` tering a groove cut in the face of said toothed wheel n', are and may be all substantially as represented in patent to Dimond, No. 605,700, and `also United States `Patent N o. 520,977. In `practice the needle-bar gate will be vibrated as provided for in Patent No. 605,700. The Patent No. 605,700, as Well as the patent referred to, shows the looping mechanism arranged to move transversely to the feed.

In the embodiment of our invention herein represented the shaft B hasat one end a pinion a4", which engages Va pinion a3, one-half its size, on a shaft a4, said shaft having a bevelt 9 gear ad, which engages a bevel-gear a fast on` the driving-shaft am, which actuates the looping mechanism, said looping mechanism being,herein represented as a hook d, having a oint 7, said point when entering the loo P Q D of needle-thread moving in the direction of the length of the seam and in the direction of the feeding movement of the material, the,

relative sizes of the gearing referred to being4 such as to impart two rotations to the looping mechanism during each complete stroke of. the` needle-bar. This looping mechanism has att-ached to and made movable with it a plate m3, provided with an upturned liporde.- flector m', shaped to meet in this embodiment of our invention the right-handside of` the needle after the saure has passedbelow the,

usual throat-plate and springer deflect it laterally to the Vleft in order that the needle at that descent may be put in proper position with relation to the point of the .approaching looping mechanism to have its loop entered by the said point.A Close to the left-hand side of the path of movement of said hook (vierw-y ing Fig. l) there is a space, and this space receives (see Fig. 6) a feed-bar B10,A (see also` Fig. 5,) said feed-bar having suitable feedpoint blocks Bw, the feed-bar being jointed at one endas stated, to the'arm DX; but at its opposite end said bar is slotted to receive a block b1, mounted loosely on a stud 1917 ofv the arm n?, before described as attachedA to the rock-shaft n?, andsaid feed-bar ismovedV up and downat proper times and in proper, order to effect the feeding of the material in` a forward and then for a less distancein a backward direction during eachstitch of'they figure, substantially as providedhfor in saidV Patent No. 605,700, the three-stitch figure being represented in Fig. 9. The throat-plate ehas an elongated needle-hole Z219, through ,which the needle passes in eac-h of its descents at the edges of the hemstitch-ligure,

3and saidthroat-plate also has a notched ear e2, which receives a projection e4, extended `from the thread-case c5 to thus prevent its rotation with the looping mechanism, as in United States Patent No. 578, 136,dated March 2, 1897.

The machine herein described has a piercercarryingV bar G, provided at its upper end with an adjustable stud g, extended from a collar fast on said bar by a set-screw gx, said pin being extended loosely through a hole in the upper end of the needle-bar A4. This piercer-carrying bar works in suitable bearings in the head of the machine, and at its lower end it has a block against which rests an arm g2, said arm being slotted to receive a set-screw g4, which confines said arm adjustably, to the block at the lower end of the piercer-carrying bar, said arm having attached to it by a suitable screw, as g5, a piercer g3. This piercer-carrying bar, arm,

and piercer and the means of adjusting it laterally on or with relation to the said bar are and may be all substantially as represented in our Patent'No. 608,152, dated July 26,1898. This piercer-carrying bar has only a motion of reciprocation, and it always works up and down at one and the saine side or edge of the hemstitch seam or gnrez`. e., it always enters the material off of the hem-the material at such point being of a single thickness, said piercer working after the manner ofa stiletto and making a hole to be entered by the needle Z9. The needle-bar, however, rises and falls, as stated, in ditferent vertical planes,

laccording to the position of the needle-bar gate, said needle descending at times at one edge and at other times at the opposite edge of the hemstitch-gure, or it descends at times `at one yside of the center-line figure 7L and at other times at the opposite side thereof.

As has been hereinbefore stated, the point g7 of thelooping mechanism when taking a loop of thread from the needle may move in a path coinciding at the time of the taking of the loop either with the center line of the hemstitch or with the line at either edge of the hemstitch viewed with relation to its width. When the point Q7 moves in a circular hori- Zontal plane which coincides with the center line ofthe hemstitch and then the needle, when it descends at the edges ot' the hemstitchand atkopposite sides of said center line, is at each descent out of line with relation to the path of movement of the point Q7 at the time of the taking of the loop of needlethread, and in such arrangement ofour in-` vention we employ two delectors, the deiiector m, which has been hereinbefore dcscribed, acting upon the needle passing through the material at one edge of the hem-,`

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stitch and pushing upon said needle belowv the cloth-plate, forcing said needle into proper position with relation to the movement of said point, and when the needle descends at the opposite side of the hemstitch it, when it arrives under the throat-plate, meets the stationary deflector w and is forced to the right, viewing Fig. 3, suiiciently far to enable the point g7 to enterthe loop ofneedle-thread extended from the needle. Figs. 2 and 3 represent the needle as acted upon by these two deiiectors.v AAfter the point of the looping mechanism has entered the loop of needlethread and the needle-bar and needle rise the needle retires from the control of said deectors and immediately resumes its usual straight position. If the 'point Q7 of the looping mechanism be arranged to meet the needle when it penetrates the material at that edge of the vhemstitch containing the stitches p, p3, and 195, Viewing Fig. 9, then the said operative; but should the point of the looperv be so located as to take the loop of needle- `thread in a vertical `plane immediately be- 1 low that edge cf the hemstitch having the stitches p2, p', and p4 then said needle when it meets the material at the opposite edge of the hemstitch to make stitches p3 and p must be acted upon by the deflector and moved to the right in order that the said' needle may be in position to have its loop entered by the point of the looping mechanism, and in such instance the deflector w willv be operative. It will thus be understood that but one deflector may be used, if desired, and the needle be sprung aside only whenit penetrates the material at one edge of the hemstitch-seam; but in such place the needle will have to be forced'farther aside at each operation or to a greater extent than` when both defiectors act to force or spring the'needle aside in one direction at one descent and in the opposite direction at the nextv descent. It will consequently be understood in this construction that the needle will be defiected or forced aside at each descent, it being forced to the right in one descent and to the left at a subsequent descent, thus putting the needle in proper position to have its loop entered by the point of the looping mechanism, and that in other modifications the needle may at one thrust or descent come properly into relation with the point of the looping mechanism to have its loop entered and-taken by the said point without springing or forcing the needle aside, but at a subsequent descent the needle must be sprung or forced to one side,

either to the right or to the left, as the case may be, to enable the loop of thread extended ena-16d from the needle to be entered Aby the point of the loopingl mechanism.

Referring to Fig. 9, it showing one form of hemstitch-figure-viz. a three-stitch figureit will be supposed that the stitch p is the first stitch of said ligure. This stitch will be made, let it be supposed, in the hem, say, of a handkerchief or other article to show the open-hemstitch seam. This hem is, it will be supposed, composed of two vor more thicknesses. The next, stitch at p' is made olf the hem in the material .of one thickness, the material for that stitch having Vhad given to it a for-ward feed movement in the direction of the arrow, and the following stitch at p2 is also made olf the hem in thematerial of one thickness, the feed of the material from the stitch p to 102 being, however, in a backward direction. This stitch is repeated again, and fromp2 the stitch goes again to p3 in the hem, the feed being in a forward direction. From the stitch p3 to the stitch p4 0E the hem the feed is a forward one, and from p4 to p5 off the hem the feed is again backward, and from p5 to p6 in thehem the feedis forward. Thisflgureshows two repeats of the three-stitch ligure. This Ainvention isl not limited to the exact number of stitches in each ligure, asmore than three stitches for each ligure might be used and not depart froml our invention.

Hav-ing described ourl invention, whatwe claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s

l. In a sewing-machine for making a hemstitch, the following instrumentalities, viz: a circularly-moving looping mechanism for manipulating a second or under thread, the point of said looping mechanism in its movement inthe direction of the line of stitching and of the feed entering the loop of needlethread; a needle-bar provided with an eyepointed needle to contain a needlethread; means to move said needle-bar laterally and to reciprocate said needle-bar vertically in two or more defined vertical planes, and a plurality of deflectors, said needle at one downward thrust being met by one of said deflectors to force the same when below the material into proper position to have its loop entered by the point of the looping mechanism, and at another descent of said needle through the material being met by the other deiiector, forcing theneedle then below the'material in the opposite direction, putting the same in position properly with relation to the point of the looping mechanism to have the loop of needle thread entered by the point of said looping mechanism, substantially as described.

2. A needle-bar having an attached needle; means to Vibratesaid needle-bar, placing it at times at one and then at the opposite edge of the hemstitch-seam to be made; means to reciprocate said needlebar and needle; a throatplate; two deflectors located below said throat-plate and adapted each to act at IOO IIO

predetermined times against and to move the point of said needle while below said throatplate toward the center line of said hemstitch gure or seam, combined with looping mechanism to control an under or second thread, said looping mechanism having a point which moves in the direction of the length of the seam and the stitch when the point thereof takes the loop of thread from the needle, substantially as described.

3. In amachine for making a zigzag or hem stitch, a needle-bar gate; a needle-bar therein provided with an eye-pointed needle; a throat.- plate; a looping'mechanism composed of a rotating hook containing an under thread and located to turn in a horizontal plane the point of the hook in each rotation coinciding with the center line of said hemstitch figure; means to rotate said hook ,continuously at a uniform speed; means to move said needlebar gate to place said needle prior to its descent frst at one andV then at theV other side of the center line of said hemstitch-gure; and means located below said throat-plate and cooperating with said needle to force it laterally at times in one and then in the opposite direction, into substantially the center line of said figure, that the loop of thread carried by said needle may be entered by the point of said hook, substantially as described.

4. The needle-bar gate, its needle-bar and needle; means to vibrate said gate to place the needle at times at one and then at the opposite side of the center line of a hemstitchfigure; a throat-plate; a stationary and a movable deflector located below said throatplate and adapted each to act at predetermined times against and to force the point of said needle while below said throatplate into substantially the center line ofV said figure; and a complemental under looping mechanism carrying an under thread, said looping mechanism having a point to enter the loop of needle-thread while the needle is forced into position at the center line of said figure, substantially as described.

5. In a machine for hemstitching, the following instrumentalties, viz: a piercer-carrying bar; a piercer carried thereby; means to reciprocate said piercer-bar to enable the piercer to penetrate the material always at one side of the center line of the hemstitchfigure, the needle-bar, its needle; a gate carrying said needle, means to vibrate said gate to place the needle at times at one and then at times at the other side of the center line of said hemstitch-gure; a throat-plate; two deflectors located below said throat-plate and adapted each to act at predetermined times against and to move the point of said needle while below said throat-plate into substantially the center line of said ligure; and a complemental looping mechanism carrying an under thread, said looping mechanismhaving a hook to enter the loop of needle- 6. In a sewing-machine for sewing a hemstitch, the following instrnmentalities, viz: a piercer-carrying bar, a piercer carried thereby, means to reciprocate said piercer-carrymateral always at one side of the centerline of the hemstitch-tigure; looping mechanism for manipulating a second or under thread, said looping mechanism having a point moving in the direction of the feed of the material, the point of said looping mechanism coinciding once during each complete movement with the center line of the hemstitchfigure; a needle-bar provided with an eyepointed needle to contain a needle-thread, means to move said needle-bar laterally and to reciprocate it-Vertically in two or more deined vertical planes; and suitable deflectors cooperating with the point of said needle below the material, forcing it aside and putting the needle in proper position with relation to the point of the looping mechanism to enable the loop of needle-thread to be entered by the point of the looping mechanism, substantially as described.

7. In a hemstitch-sewing machine, a rotary looping mechanism, means to move it in a horizontal plane, a deiieetor stationary with relation to said looping mechanism, a feedbar located between said looping mechanism and the support for said deector, said feedbar having an opening in which stands the acting end of the deector, and actuating means for said feed-bar, substantially as described.

8. In a sewing-machine for sewing a hemstitch, the following instrumentalities, viz: a needle-bar carrying an eye-pointed needle, a rotary looping mechanism having a point; means for causing the coperation of the needle and the looping mechanism comprising a deiiector rotating with said looping mechanism and acting in advance of the point of the looping mechanism, means to rotate said looping mechanism in a horizontal plane; devices to move said needle-bar vertically and to vibrate it laterally whereby said needle may pass for a plurality of times in succession through the material of single thickness, and then through the material of double thickness, the said needle thus passing through the material in two vertical planes in the direction of the length of the same, one of which descents ot' the needle would leave it below thematerial in an inoperative position with relation to the point of the looping mechanism, said deflector cooperating withthe needle only at such descents thereof where the needle would occupy its inoperative position with relation to the point of the looping mechanism; said deflector forcing the point of the needle laterally below the material into its operative po- 4 ing bar to enable the piercer to penetrate the IOO 

